Costa del Sol Tourism Guide - Malaga History Alcazaba

Malaga Campaign & the Spanish Civil War 1936-1939

"History seldom proceeds in straight lines", says acclaimed historian Antony Beevor in his new international bestseller 'The Battle For Spain. The Spanish Civil War 1936-1939'. (published by Phoenix Paperback, 2007 and highly recommended). You'll need to go to the pages of such books to discover Malaga's more recent history, specifically its role as a strong republican base (anti-nationalist against Franco's forces). There isn't unfortunately much on the Spanish Civil War Malaga Campaign of February 1937 in Malaga museums, yet the nationalist revenge under Franco's lead in conjunction with Italian forces assistance in Malaga, long a centre for republicanism and anarcho syndicalism, was one of the most horrific of the Spanish Civil War.

The Malaga Campaign was the first action of the Italian Corps of Volunteer Troops, essentially mostly fascist militia. The republican anti-fascist southern strip reaching from Motril to the east down to Estepona in the west had, as Beevor highlights, largely avoided attack by nationalists because they were preoccupied in fighting around Madrid, another Republican stronghold. Largely isolated, the Republic stronghold in the south had been starved of ammunition and blame for this was put on the Republican government's door and their neglect of the region - a deliberate neglect linked to the south's strong independence . Malaga and the south were pretty much doomed, and there was further evidence that Republican commander Colonel Villalba sabotaged defence against the nationalists, as he was treated particularly well by Franco's forces after the defeat.

The surprise attack on Malaga during the first months of February 1937 was preceded by the capture of the south west areas including Marbella by the nationalists in January. It took just 3 days for the nationalist forces to reach Malaga's outskirts with naval bombardments by the nationalist fleet. No republican warships arrived from Cartagena to the west to assist.

By the 8th February 1937 Malaga was taken by nationalist forces, and descriptions from the time, outlined by Beevor (p.225) of fleeing civilians and worn out republican militia are harrowing. The city was in ruins, and largely abandoned. The British consul reported 20,000 executions in Malaga by nationalists between 1937 and 1944. The nationalist prosecutor during that time was Carlos Arias Navarro who later became the last prime minister under the Franco regime, before King Juan Carlos took over after Franco's death in 1975.

Malaga Cathedral, Iglesia del Sagrario, Palacio Episcopal & Plaza del Obispo

Malaga Cathedral might be unfinished, but there's no denying its spectacular architectural mix dominates the small narrow streets which surround it. Situated on Calle Cister, Malaga's Cathedral sits on the site of the former Muslim mosque. Work began on it in 1528 in chosen Gothic style, but later style shifts resulted in the mix of Gothic and Renaissance to the dome, Gothic on the northern doorway and an 18th century baroque theme to its facade. The mix of styles adds to its architectural interest and draws the eye of every new visitor.

The Cathedral's interior is even more of a mix, with a huge number of separate chapels (15 in all, plus 25 altars!), a feature choir area with 17th century wooden choir stalls designed by Pedro de Mena. Some altars are Neoclassical, others are Gothic, the effect is all rather kitsch. Adjacent sits the Museo Catredralicio which houses religious art exhibits and the Sagrario church situated on the north side. Sagrario dates from the 16th century and has a fascinating elaborate Gothic facade. Alongside the cathedral to the left flanking Plaza Del Obispo you won't help but notice the elaborate and spectacular facade of the Palacio Episcopal (cafes line the Plaza Del Obispo so there's plenty of opportunity to sit down and admire views of both architectural wonders at your leisure).

The Episcopal palace, essentially a collection of buildings dating from the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries actually pull your eyes away from the cathedral with their awe-inspiring Baroque facade. This area of Malaga centre is the most striking in the city. The Episcopal mainly houses exhibitions today.

Malaga History, Alcazaba Malaga Spain & Castillo De Gibralfaro, Malaga Castle

When Phoeonicians from Tyre landed on the Andalusian coast around 800 BC they called the Malaga area Malaka, and so Malaka developed as a strategic trading post. The Romans arrived in the late third century BC and exports in the Malaga area boomed under them, particularly the fish sauce/paste garum and olive oil. Malaga was a fully fledged town by the end of the first century AD, with the Alcazaba fortress and Roman theatre were in place. After Roman domination withered in the Iberian Peninsula, Malaga as with other areas saw a period of unrest with Berber, Visigoths and Islamic invasion. The Moors finally surrendered the city in 1487 to the Christians.

Malaga saw pockets of economic growth through the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries, with first farming exports then later industrial growth in textiles and steel, but was consistently afflicted by disease in the 17th century, largely due to the flooding of the River Guadalmedina. In the 19th century some grew rich off industrial growth and built their mansions to the east, whilst workers were segregated off to the west. A Republican stronghold during the Spanish Civil War, Malaga was brutally put down after it was taken by Franco's fascists in February 1937. The 20th century saw decline in both the textiles industry and the destruction of its economic mainstay - the vines, destroyed by phylloxera plague. Enter the development of tourism taking off proper at the beginning of the 1960s, and the increasing growth of Malaga's economy which sees it today bidding for City of European Culture 2016 (see weblink right for details).

Malaga's history then is a turbulent one, and a raw deal for those workers at the bottom of the ladder in farming, textiles and steel. Not by chance was Malaga a centre for Republicanism and anarcho-syndicalism. Historic sites in Malaga remain as reminders of its history, notably the Alcazaba Muslim fortress dating from 1057. A lift takes you up from Calle Guillen Sotelo. A national monument from 1931 (before that the poor had made use of it as a neighbourhood dwelling), what remains are defensive towers, ramps, walls, the keep, remains of the parade ground, the Arch of Christ and palace chamber remains. The Alcazaba sits on the lower western end slopes above Malaga, whilst the Gibralfaro Castillo sits higher on the crest and connects to the Alcazaba via a coracha/corridor running between the two walls. Alcazaba Malaga, Calle Alcazabilla, Malaga. Tel. 952 22 51. Remains of the Roman Theatre sit just below the Alcazaba.

Gibralfaro Castle was begun in the late 8th century under Emir Abd-ar-Rahman I (documents point to a lighthouse being on the crest prior to the castle's construction). The castle's interior has not survived, but a walkway leads around the ramparts, and the views from here are spectacular. Castillo De Gibralfaro, Tel. 952 22 72 30. For more information see both the Visit Costa Del Sol and Malaga webguides linked right.